Wednesday

My inner cowgirl

When I was a little girl growing up in Wickenburg, Arizona, on the weekends I was either trailing after my dad to hunt for gold nuggets, practicing my gold panning skills, or riding a horse. We didn't own any horses as my parents liked to gypsy back and forth between our Minnesota farm and the Sonoran Desert too often to keep large long-lived animals around. But my friends in this cowboy town had horses, and I learned to ride young. I remember when I was about eight years old, my friend and I would take off on her horses, just the two of us, no adults. We'd wander in the desert for hours, until the horses decided it was time to return for supper.


Most places to stay look better on the internet, than they do in person, but not Hacienda los Andes. A stunning paradise is what greeted us in the morning:

A Mexican-style hacienda, with the fountain in the courtyard, the parrots in the trees, the sun in the sky, and nary a cloud: just what the doctor ordered for these winter weary Alaskans. If I didn't live in Alaska, I'd want to live here. Lucky is what the owners are, and blessed is how I felt to spend just a few days in this very special spot.
The Hacienda is a small, intimate lodging; there were never more than ten guests there during our stay. Most, like us, had come to meet, and ride, the horses.

And these were new horses for me. Not Mustangs, not Thoroughbreds, Palominos, Paints, or Arabians. These were Criollo horses, direct descendants of the horses the Spainards brought with them. They are very muscular and hardy, powerful, sweet and affectionate. It was instant love. 

The Hacienda comprises about 1,000 acres, which includes the beautiful Mexican ranch style buildings, stables, and extensive gardens; the pastures and alfalfa fields for the horses; surrounding hills of desert; and a fantastic riparian environment - a small, swift stream with accompanying lush vegetation flowing through the property, with a trail that follows its flow, complete with swimming holes (swimsuits optional), camping sites, and hidden coves.

The Hacienda is, it can't be stated enough times, a veritable Paradise. We ended up spending more nights here than we had planned, for a total of five, because we couldn't tear ourselves away from the place.

We took many hikes in the desert. We enjoyed the plethora of fruit and nut trees: apricot, fig, apple, cherry, lime, orange, pomegrante, avocado, walnut, and pecan, most of which were overflowing with their produce. We'd walk around the property, plucking an apricot here, a fig there, constantly snacking on the abundant offerings. We went skinny dipping on Noodie Island in the river. Napped in hammocks. Enjoyed wonderful breakfasts of homebaked bread and locally made goat cheese, and dinners of good food followed by hours and hours of stories and conversation, with candles, stars, and the Zorba the Greek-ish owner, a German who sailed around the world for decades. He has traveled to nearly every spot on the globe, and finally chose this spot in Chile as the most perfect place to live.

We took midnight hikes, with wine, to view the stars: and what a magnificent sky it is! With some of the clearest skies on the planet (many of the world's largest telescopes are in this valley), and not atmospheric disturbances, the stars are out by the millions and they don't twinkle like we're used to. They just shine, bright and strong.

Following are some photos of our stay: 

These horses live an ideal life: beautiful, extensive pastures with fruit trees to nibble on, and a flowing spring to drink from.


The dining room of the Hacienda, although we usually ate outside as the weather there is perfect year-round.

Wrangler getting ready for a trail ride, and resting saddles.

On one of our trail rides, we visited a goat farmer, Don Camilo, who lives high in the desert hills. The above two pictures show his farm, and sitting at the table is himself on the left, and our German host on the right. He invited us in to share some precious water. 


Cheers to a great trail ride!

And finally: a mom, with her newborn, and our host, in an act of ultimate trust.

2 comments:

Dan said...

Wow....it seems like a really cool place.

Joy said...

Oh, this looks like the most charming place ever - must have been hard to tear yourselves away - looks like such a paradise - and what beautiful horses!